Tram for Calcutta!!

As a pompous bong it has always been Kolkata, but as a true Calcacian…. Calcutta is just irresistible for its unparallel probity of charm. 1880 Calcutta Tram Company Ltd registered in London, horse pulled compartments to Armenian Ghat. Two years later steam locomotives were deployed on the same meter – gauge.  Electrification happened later around 1900. A gift to the colony then now an encomium of heritage. 

Anything imperialistic in use would always mock on the face of acute nationalism.  Perhaps “Calcutta” was the widest red penumbra alive; and “Kolkata” thereby removed all hovering darkness for once.

Prince Dwarkanath Tagore the cultured capitalistic mind had engaged in direct trade with East India Company and undoubtedly he was the gaudy pin up boy of Bengal. He was the desi – flamboyant answer to the whole of occidental class. He had hosted some of the best English parties with full attendance but never dined on the same table with them; as his revered mother almost equated such an act to be blasphemous for the entire clan. The Tagores envisioned liberation in conjugation with complete Swedeshi movement but they also believed strongly on East & West cultural synthesis.

It doesn’t honk crazy it creates an alarming pitch for the pouring traffic and pedestrians, very similar like the Dosa – idli peddler found in south of greater Calcutta. A complete riddle until I saw the motor man tapping his right foot to allow the mechanism down to work.  Out of many notifications I always went guessing with this one “Pls move inside the Car” Are the commuters suppose to move around inside the car??? And in which angle does it look like a Car??....

The motorman stands throughout his shift; shifting the brass gear handle, muffler wrapped around the face and rest clad in khaki is one of those early signs of winter onset in Calcutta. The body of the tram is like a slow moving tabloid minus vulgarity. The halo like fans in the 1^st class accentuates the vanity of those erstwhile Bhadraloks, as they still deny giving – up on the dying genre.   The left row in the 1^st class with all single seats is clearly an example of pricey seclusion in public medium.  

The Chowringhee marked by the bastion Victoria House for Calcutta Electric Supply Corporation still have business share remnants in Sussex ……the Esplanade Tram Depot links it to all possible corners. Clamoring through the largest second hand book market, book huts on College Street have been pampering Bengali intellect over a small cup of tea at Coffee House for several decades, down the lane  Star Theater once the stable for soft power in Calcutta, 3 Gourmohan Mukherjee Street on the left of one of those single seaters house of Swami Vivekanda blissful and fortifying as ever. Buildings overloaded with time some in shambles awaiting the notice from Kolkata Municipal, wide pavements used and managed by the hawkers’ association; the tram pulls up at a distance from the unvanquished hero now mounted right at the center of 5 point crossing. On the left a dark alley shed for all Shyambazar bound trams ….

Tram is best captured by the terrain of Race Course, Maidan, The Paddock for many Viceroys in Calcutta now the only breathing meadow for the city. Officers from Eastern Army HQ those who still debate on the actual number of deceased in the Black Hole of Calcutta fiercely panting after a drill on Red Road while the Kidderpore bound Tram races by. The 2^nd Class conductor with curved shoulders leaning on the footboard rod which has that unusual sheen and smoothness, early chill of winter, rolled monkey cap covering his almost bald crown pulled sidewise leaving the ear lobes, solid frame glasses with a fine hair line crack, a Khaki duty sweater with thick leather patch on the right elbow, a mid size pouch belly resting on the old torso. Last time his service shoes got polished on Independence Day laces tied since then..

Till the first few years of schooling I always thought that there is only one way you can reach Gariahat, (Piccadilly of South Calcutta) 24/29 No Ballygunge bound tram from Tolly… those eerie late announcements from the starter room, quite sure even today they must be using the same old mike with irregular buzz. The first right turn out from the Tolly depo and the electric hanger/ Trolley Pole called in Europe goes for a free swing, means an uncalled halt. A lazy diligent team stationed at Rashbehari crossing managing lines for Ballgunge/Kalighat/Esplanade. Very few know the shed at Kalighat another almost redundant area counting days. The Joka depo which had very less traffic has given up to some other flourishing dream.

Can you discuss Calcutta without the Armenians, they discovered Kalikata before the Raj company came over, the Armenian College still stands as testament of faded glory, the Tollly Nullah with some exquisite rich clubmanship in the name of Tolly Club, Bengal and Calcutta. The Park Street cemetery which is as congested as the street, tomb stones with indelible affluent English names. Dalhousie Square the commercial point of Cal, Lal Dighi, Raj Bhavan’s final bill gave sleepless nights to the Company directors back in London. The Great Eastern hotel now don’t know what!!! Sir, Winston Churchill was put in the house with guest of honor, special to the empress and record says in one of his letters he shared his likings for Calcutta Winters and how vaguely he compared it with London. St.Pauls Cathedral which occupies space in the land of colony but never intimidated with so much non- angelic things.

How is a Chatterjee different from a Chattopadhyay or a Banerjee from Bandopadhyay … well the white alien tongues could never wrap it like we do, so preferred a Jee by the end, so now Calcutta is flooded with authentic Jees. The Bengalis, with their efficacy as Clerkmanship in the Company always enjoyed intellectual reverence from folks, never wanted to soil their hands into trade and commerce; which saw a community from Rajasthan cornering the natives to the outskirts of Calcutta.

Post Calcutta Trams Act 1951 state government took over the management in 1967, around 1970 saw some sections winding up like, Howrah, Nimtala ghat route though we had some extension work around the eighties.   

Why did they choose Calcutta to run tram over a Bombay or Madras!!!!

Have you ever seen a tram conductor running down into squabble with a fellow passenger for change or, gregarious appeal by commuters to run it fast so that they don’t slip in late into office for 3^rd consecutive day in the week, did you ever witness a tram set ablaze by the local mob turned goons for some high street mishap, don’t really remember when was the last time I saw a overcrowded tram with people just not able to mange on that wide footboard. City livestock can still interrupt its movement with very little admonishment…….

Must say this machine was built keeping in accord with the formative principal which once drove Calcutta, so the city of joy is incomplete without a joyous tram ride.