As a
pompous bong it has always been Kolkata, but as a true Calcacian…. Calcutta is
just irresistible for its unparallel probity of charm. 1880 Calcutta Tram
Company Ltd registered in London, horse pulled compartments to Armenian Ghat.
Two years later steam locomotives were deployed on the same meter – gauge. Electrification happened later around 1900. A
gift to the colony then now an encomium of heritage.
Anything
imperialistic in use would always mock on the face of acute nationalism. Perhaps “Calcutta” was the widest red
penumbra alive; and “Kolkata” thereby removed all hovering darkness for once.
Prince
Dwarkanath Tagore the cultured capitalistic mind had engaged in direct trade
with East India Company and undoubtedly he was the gaudy pin up boy of Bengal. He
was the desi – flamboyant answer to the whole of occidental
class. He had hosted some of the best English parties with full attendance but
never dined on the same table with them; as his revered mother almost equated
such an act to be blasphemous for the entire clan. The Tagores envisioned
liberation in conjugation with complete Swedeshi movement but they also
believed strongly on East & West cultural synthesis.
It doesn’t
honk crazy it creates an alarming pitch for the pouring traffic and
pedestrians, very similar like the Dosa – idli peddler found in south
of greater Calcutta. A complete riddle until I saw the motor man tapping his
right foot to allow the mechanism down to work. Out of many notifications I always went
guessing with this one “Pls move inside the Car” Are the
commuters suppose to move around inside the car??? And in which angle does it
look like a Car??....
The motorman
stands throughout his shift; shifting the brass gear handle, muffler wrapped
around the face and rest clad in khaki is one of those early signs of winter
onset in Calcutta. The body of the tram is like a slow moving tabloid minus
vulgarity. The halo like fans in the 1st class accentuates the vanity
of those erstwhile Bhadraloks, as they still deny giving – up on the dying
genre. The left row in the 1st
class with all single seats is clearly an example of pricey seclusion in public
medium.
The
Chowringhee marked by the bastion Victoria House for Calcutta Electric Supply
Corporation still have business share remnants in Sussex ……the Esplanade Tram
Depot links it to all possible corners. Clamoring through the largest second
hand book market, book huts on College Street have been pampering Bengali
intellect over a small cup of tea at Coffee House for several decades, down the
lane Star Theater once the stable for
soft power in Calcutta, 3 Gourmohan Mukherjee Street on the left of one of
those single seaters house of Swami Vivekanda blissful and fortifying as ever. Buildings
overloaded with time some in shambles awaiting the notice from Kolkata
Municipal, wide pavements used and managed by the hawkers’ association; the
tram pulls up at a distance from the unvanquished hero now mounted right at the
center of 5 point crossing. On the left a dark alley shed for all Shyambazar
bound trams ….
Tram
is best captured by the terrain of Race Course, Maidan, The Paddock for many
Viceroys in Calcutta now the only breathing meadow for the city. Officers from Eastern
Army HQ those who still debate on the actual number of deceased in the Black
Hole of Calcutta fiercely panting after a drill on Red Road while the Kidderpore
bound Tram races by. The 2nd Class conductor with curved shoulders leaning
on the footboard rod which has that unusual sheen and smoothness, early chill
of winter, rolled monkey cap covering his almost bald crown pulled sidewise leaving
the ear lobes, solid frame glasses with a fine hair line crack, a Khaki duty
sweater with thick leather patch on the right elbow, a mid size pouch belly resting
on the old torso. Last time his service shoes got polished on Independence Day laces
tied since then..
Till
the first few years of schooling I always thought that there is only one way
you can reach Gariahat, (Piccadilly of South Calcutta) 24/29 No Ballygunge
bound tram from Tolly… those eerie late announcements from the starter room, quite
sure even today they must be using the same old mike with irregular buzz. The
first right turn out from the Tolly depo and the electric hanger/ Trolley Pole
called in Europe goes for a free swing, means an uncalled halt. A lazy diligent
team stationed at Rashbehari crossing managing lines for Ballgunge/Kalighat/Esplanade.
Very few know the shed at Kalighat another almost redundant area counting days.
The Joka depo which had very less traffic has given up to some other
flourishing dream.
Can
you discuss Calcutta without the Armenians, they discovered Kalikata before the
Raj company came over, the Armenian College still stands as testament of faded
glory, the Tollly Nullah with some exquisite rich clubmanship in the name of
Tolly Club, Bengal and Calcutta. The Park Street cemetery which is as congested
as the street, tomb stones with indelible affluent English names. Dalhousie
Square the commercial point of Cal, Lal Dighi, Raj Bhavan’s final bill gave
sleepless nights to the Company directors back in London. The Great Eastern
hotel now don’t know what!!! Sir, Winston Churchill was put in the house with
guest of honor, special to the empress and record says in one of his letters he
shared his likings for Calcutta Winters and how vaguely he compared it with
London. St.Pauls Cathedral which occupies space in the land of colony but never
intimidated with so much non- angelic things.
How
is a Chatterjee different from a Chattopadhyay or a Banerjee from Bandopadhyay …
well the white alien tongues could never wrap it like we do, so preferred a Jee
by the end, so now Calcutta is flooded with authentic Jees. The Bengalis, with
their efficacy as Clerkmanship in the Company always enjoyed intellectual
reverence from folks, never wanted to soil their hands into trade and commerce;
which saw a community from Rajasthan cornering the natives to the outskirts of
Calcutta.
Post
Calcutta Trams Act 1951 state government took over the management in 1967,
around 1970 saw some sections winding up like, Howrah, Nimtala ghat route
though we had some extension work around the eighties.
Why
did they choose Calcutta to run tram over a Bombay or Madras!!!!
Have
you ever seen a tram conductor running down into squabble with a fellow
passenger for change or, gregarious appeal by commuters to run it fast so that
they don’t slip in late into office for 3rd consecutive day in the
week, did you ever witness a tram set ablaze by the local mob turned goons for
some high street mishap, don’t really remember when was the last time I saw a overcrowded
tram with people just not able to mange on that wide footboard. City livestock can
still interrupt its movement with very little admonishment…….
Must
say this machine was built keeping in accord with the formative principal which
once drove Calcutta, so the city of joy is incomplete without a joyous tram
ride.
